A bicycle built for one?
Photo by Tony the Misfit
I want a bike. I haven’t owned a bicycle since I lived at home with my parents, and probably haven’t actually ridden one (aside from the stationary model at the gym) in the intervening 18 years since moving out. But now I’ve been bitten by a summertime bicycle bug and I’ve become a wheel-obsessed pedestrian. I admit that I don’t know the first thing about bikes, which is where all of you intrepid Answerers come in.
Most of my former bikes were those BMX-style, gearless dirt bikes that you brake by pedaling in reverse. They might have been perfect for a scrappy 12-year-old with nothing but grass trails behind his house, but probably aren’t the best for tooling around NYC. Obviously, something larger with multiple gears is probably going to better suit my current needs, but that’s where I get stuck. What are the differences between mountain bikes, road bikes, and touring bikes? I’ll be doing most of my riding either around Central Park or on city streets, so what would be the best type for my needs? And what kind of protective gear will I need? Is a helmet enough, or do I need to the full regalia of knee and elbow pads?
Along with choosing the right bicycle for my specific riding needs, I need to choose one that I can store easily. I live in a pretty typical New York apartment, which translates to virtually no space to store a vacuum cleaner, let alone a bike. I don’t have a garage or backyard in which to keep it, nor do I have any available space in the entryway of my building. My only option is to rent a storage unit or to find a place inside the apartment, and that is going to be a bit of a challenge. What are my options regarding hanging a bike from the ceiling or on a wall? Are there any new and novel ways that you inventive cyclists have found to store your wheels in a tight space?
Someone recommended that I check out one of those portable, folding models-but to be honest, they look like more of a pain than they are worth. Granted, I’ve never ridden one, but they don’t seem much easier to ride than my old-school BMX bike. Their portability and size make them the ideal solution for a small space like mine, but would I be compromising performance and durability?
Can anyone help inform my quest for the perfect bicycle? And what safety and maintenance tips can you recommend for a new bike rider/owner?
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First of all stay away from big box stores. Go to a store that specializes in cycling. They will “fit” you to a bike that will decrease strain and pain, making sure that the seat is at the correct height in addition to trunk flexion and reach. It sounds as though you would do well with a hybrid. That is a lightweight bike for both road and trail riding (Central Park) By shopping at a cycling store you develop a relationship with the owner and employees in addition to supporting small business. I bought my first bike at Dick’s Sporting Goods, what a mistake. First of all the bike weighted about 50 pounds, didn’t fit right and caused back pain and numbness in my legs when I rode. Sure it was only $350, but when I purchased my second bike, the owner of the shop really asked me what I wanted to do with my time in the seat. He hooked my up with a Bianchi, took my measurements, (leg lenth, arm reach, torso) and I have been the happiest camper ever since! I love my bike, granted it cost me a bit more about $900, but it was worth it. As far as helmets go, I’m so glad that you are planning on wearing one! The shop owner will fit you with that too, and give you proper wearing instructions. Yes, there is more to it than just strapping one on. It should fit just above your eyebrows, most say one finger width, and the strap should be tight when you open your mouth. Only two fingers should be able to go between the strap and your chin when your mouth is closed. Another thing you may want to consider with your purchase is clipless shoes. They remove the pedals and replace with clips the shoes hook on to. That way when pedaling you can pull up as well as push down working both quads and hamstrings. The shop owner will teach you how to get in and out of them. There are several different types of shoes, I prefer Shimano, as they have shoes that are soft bottoms, much like an athletic shoe and they are easy to walk in when off the bike. They also have awesome sandal styles for summer that dry quickly if you get caught in the rain. I hope that I have answered your questions, happy cycling! Remember to always follow the rules of the road as you are considered a vehicle.
Oh, I forgot to answer one of your questions. The second bike I purchased only weighed 23# a far cry from the original bike. Which, of course will make it easier to lug up and down stairs to your apartment. I did purchase a unique hook for my bike to store in my garage. It goes on the wall and the wheel fits in the groove. I did get that at Target, but I’m sure that there are other versions out there. I like it because I feel that it is much more stable and offers more even weight distribution than a hook from a ceiling. All I can picture right now is Jerry Seinfelds bike hanging in the hall by the bathroom! Good luck in your search!
Look…run down to the pawn shop and pick up a second (or third)-hand Trek, Diamondback, GT, whatever (as long as it’s a name brand), get some tools (bike tools…not just a cresant wrench and a hammer), and go to Sheldon Brown’s website, and LEARN maintenamce. You wanna ride? Wrenching is a part of it. Learn to patch tubes and break a chain. Leant to adjust old-school bottom bracket bearings (non of that sissy sealed stuff). Get a decent saddle (or you’ll quit riding)…I ride a Brooks B66 Champion.
Start from scratch…the only parts original on Tar baby is the frame and handlebar stem. You’ll learn something, respect your bike, and feel so much better.
Get a Beach Bike !!!!!! they look fun to ride or a Sting Ray , I loved riding my brother’s bike . Good Luck
have fun and let the wind on your face & please wear a helmet !!! Please
i’d have to say that i have a TREK and its better than i could ask for. i also had some questions when buying mine, thats why i went to a trek bikes store and they helped me with everything.
hope it helped.
Hi,
The first respondant was right about going to a specialty cycling shop — regular bikes found at the local hardware store or Walmart will be just fine but they are heavier and break down easily. They are not as comfortable and usually can’t be specialized to fit you well. As well, the parts on a generic bike haven’t been put together as well as a specialty bike, and most, if not all, of the parts are no-name generic parts, instead of good brand names.
If you have a chance to borrow a friend’s specialty bike for a month, and then borrow a regular bike for another month, you will probably immediately notice the difference in riding. More expensive bikes ($800+) are quieter, lighter, shift gears nicely, start and stop faster, ride smoother, fit you (ergonomically), and just look sexier. :0)
Sometimes it’s good to have two bikes (even though it sounds like you don’t have the space).
I have two bikes — a generic bike from Canadian Tire and my ‘fancy’ bike from a specialty bike shop. I use my regular bike to go around doing everyday things or to go to festivals. Why? A nice $1000 bike can be stolen within 5 minutes while you’re hopping into the convenience store. Why not spend another $100 on a cheap bike and leave the nice bike at home?
GOOD BRAND NAMES FOR BIKES:
Specialized
Norco
Kona
Giant
ESSENTIAL ACCESSORIES:
helmet (Specialized and Giro are good brands, $30-$80)
front white light ($10)
back red light ($8)
knee pads (only for serious trail riding)
CLIP-IN PEDALS:
When buying your new bike, you will definitely come across the option of buying clip-in pedals with the accompanying shoes. The shoes are a special type of shoe that have a very stiff sole with a funny metal thing on the underside of the shoe near the front. The metal thing is actually like a key that locks into a special type of pedal you can buy. These pedals are 1/3 the size of regular pedals.
I DON’T recommend them for serious trail riding, but they are a god-send for long distances on the road. They preserve the energy that you put into each rotation of the pedals so that you don’t have to put as much effort into each pedal. Plus, you can pull UP on the pedal instead of always pushing DOWN. This exercises different muscle groups and provides relief.
Try the clip-ins on a friend’s bike before you buy them or ask the store to give you a 7-day return policy on them. They don’t work for everyone. :0)
BIKE STORAGE:
I recommend a wall-mounted bike rack.
BIKE TYPES:
MOUNTAIN bikes: are ‘chunkier’ and can be heavier. They come with suspension (shocks) and knobby tires. As well, the handle bars are straight. These bikes are made for off-road trail riding, where you need the shock absorbers for the bumps and the knobby tires for grip. Although they are made for the trails, they can most definitely be used for the road, but you won’t get the same speed as with a road bike.
ROAD bikes: These fall into 3 categories — touring, sport, and racing.
In general, all 3 have much thinner and sleeker profiles (a.k.a. sexier), and generally don’t have shocks. The tires are smooth, larger in diameter, and much thinner. The handle bars curve downwards. They are meant for riding on roads and for going for long distances at a fast speed.
It sounds like you want a sports road bike.
HYBRID bikes: these are a mix between a mountain bike and road bike. The largest difference is in the wheels, which literally look like a road bike wheel and a mountain bike wheel got together and mated.
You may also be interested in this type. You can easily switch between road and park on this bike.
BIKE LAWS:
I’m not familiar with NYC’s bike by-laws, but I would check on the city hall’s website for any other accessories they require on you or your bike. If you’re going to be biking on the road with vehicles, you’ll want to make sure you’re ‘legal’ because if you get into an accident (I’m not saying you *will*), the first thing the officer will check is you and your bike. :0) I’m not trying to scare you — I’m just trying to help you be prepared.
I like my Trek. My dad got me a bike for my birthday a few years ago, we paid a lot and we went to a reputable shop and they helped me order the bike I liked in my correct size he sized me up and I told him what I wanted my bike to have and he installed what I wanted, like I wanted a good device for keeping track of my distance and speed, and he got my dad a rack for his bike. If you go to a reputable salesperson they can tell you safety needs and they will assemble it and help you get things like car racks and apparel.
Some good answers. I’ll throw in my 2¢.
1. You need a helmet regardless of the type of riding you do. You may think its hard to hit yourself on the top of your head, but when your mileage goes over 6 digits as mine has, you realize there are a lot of strange things that can happen, even at low speeds in Central Park. Helmets are cheap effective protection for your most important body part. .
2. If I could have only one bike, it would be a mid-range hardtail mountain bike. It’s the least common denominator for ALL riding surfaces and weather conditions. A good set of semislicks would be the best tires for anything you’ll find in the park or city. Not for speed necessarily, but for durability and control.
2a. For general purpose errand riding, a garbage picked junker can be the ultimate in recycled efficiency. Theft resistant, ie, no one would want it, and cheaply replaced if someone worse off than you decides to take it. Pic shows one I pieced together a few years ago from a couple of junk bikes and a few bucks worth of parts and spray paint.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/8620552@N06/3687296395/
As for where to keep it….. if you’re that obsessed, you’ll find a place. Fortunately for me, I’ve got a house in the burbs with a garage and a basement for all my 2 wheeled friends. Back in the day, when I lived in a small apartment, the bike lived in the bedroom. Even when I lived in my van for a while…..
I’ll make this short and sweet. Mountain bikes are for dirt. Street bikes are for street. Touring bikes are for long touring. A street bike would be good for you. Though, mtn bikes tend to be more comfortable – larger seats, more upright postion, generally more gears, softer ride…. No, you don’t need the elbow pads etc. Those are for mountain bikers who race down mountains. Even cross country mountain bikers don’t wear that gear.
Don’t get a folding bike. If you bike every day, it will not suit your needs and be very uncomfortable to ride. There are many options for hanging your bike either on the wall or the ceiling (a google search will get you some results to ponder). Generally, the ceiling ones are just hooks that you hand the tires on. You could even buy some large hooks at a hardware store (do they have those in NYC?).
dont buy anything from walmart or any department store. a few good and affordable brands are diamond back, trek and specialized. these brands will have something to fit your needs. a good bike will cost from 300 up to a thousand bucks. a helmelt should enough protection.
I’ve read over several of these comments and while the information contrained in them is generally true, they do not answer the questions you asked. For safety’s sake do the “fit” first. This is determined by the standover height: when you straddle the topbar with your feet on the ground, you should have a 1-2 inch clearance. Mountain bikes are generally heavier and have a lower gearing ratios. Built to sustain heavier impact. They also have the advantage of a dual suspension to help cushion riding impact. An important feature for a new rider. Road bikes are lighter and go faster. They also have a much stiffer ride to enable more of the crank effort to be translated directly into driving the wheels.
My best advice would be to find a bike that is relatively inex- pensive, attractive to you, and is comfortable. This will allow you the opportunity to discover for yourself whether or not you find enough pleasure in the sport to pursue further. What you will learn along the way will teach you what you might want in your next bike. Do not let ego tempt you into “century” rides in the first week. Like any other exercise, your body needs time to develop and adjust to this new routine.
As an avid and enthusiastic pleasure rider, I hope you have as many happy adventures on your rides as I have had.
The reason I ride my because I like it. Some times I had no other choice. When I was growing up got my lisence planned to buy a car. Found out it’s too expensive. But couldn’t stay home. After years of riding to and from work I relized I was allot healthier than few other people. I understand it’s too far for most people their health has gone down and taking perscriptions drugs. Me i’m 55-years-old some one says I got a body of a 19-years-old.
I have been riding to work for 17 of the past 19 years, it’s just about 3/4 mile each way. Most of it is on quiet streets of dedicated cycle paths, so cars and not the problem, it’s witless pedestrians who can’t walk in a straight line at 8.20am.
I have to endorse most of the answers you already have. My boss is an ex-velodrome and road race rider and is probably streaming the T de F right now. What he says is that the frame does not matter so much as long as it fits you, the value is in the wheels, brakes, gears etc. Spend the money on these rather than an really expensive frame, those are the bits that break down in the el cheapo chain store cycles.
That said I’d avoid carbon frames unless you were in it for sport. Sure they are light but they are also expensive and for the riding style you mention they are like using a sledgehammer to crack a nut. Get an alloy frame, some people still prefer steel but steel frames are probably pretty scarce. Pashley still uses them, that’s a super-classic English brand.
I would not bother with suspensions. They make the bike heavier and for the sort of riding you’ll be doing you won’t need them.
Consider getting mudguards/ fenders. Saves you a wet stripe up the back or front if there is a shower of rain and road grime isn’t easy to get out in the wash.
My current cycle has 27 gears, of which I use about 6. Maybe. Once in a while I select another chain ring to “spread the wear”. There are the classic 3 and 5 speed hub gears still available, probably all you’ll ever need and the Germans are making one with 11 or 15 gears, I forget how many but they are not cheap. Hub gears stay in adjustment for years at a time and are not damaged if you drop the cycle on the right.
If you are riding on pavement, avoid the knobbly tires, they just mean extra effort for no gain. Go for thorn proof if you can, I’ll bet there is plenty of glass lying about.
Your first answer mentioned the Bianchi brand, until recently these were the finest available and are still pretty well up there. Might be overkill for your riding. A knowledgeable bicycle thief will target them, they are always the same blue-green colour.
Get a solid chain or cable lock and if you lock the bike to a railing, do so tightly to make it hard to get bolt cutters in.
The Sheldon Brown series of sites are excellent, probably the best cycling sites on the net.
Distance from top of saddle to pedal at bottom of travel is 1.09 times your inside leg measurement. Men’s frames are usually slightly longer than women’s frames as men tend to be longer hip to shoulder.
Get a helmet, don’t bother with the rest. Some kind of light cargo equipment is handy for nipping down to the corner store or a bottle of vino and a chicken sandwich.
Run a net search for “Tweed Rides”, there are plenty of photos on Flicker and it’s time NY had one.
DO NOT get a mountain bike, DO NOT get a beach cruser, they have more weight and you don’t need any suspension or silly shock absorbers for street riding.
A good road bike or light hybrid is what you need. Something that is easy to propel with less effort so that you get the joy of riding back.
If you live up stares, or have to lift the bike up to put in on a wall overhead hook, or even have to peddle it up a steep hill you will appreciate a light bike. That means no more weight or stuff on it than you need. You don’t need to spend a lot of money on a carbon fiber or fancy bike. A standard road bike that was once competitive 15 years ago can be converted into a very good commuter bike.
You don’t need fancy racing peddles or bike shoes. This will just get in the way of you jumping on and riding down to the coffee shop or using it for short trips around town. Have it ready to go with the minimum of fuss. If you can, park it by your front door pointing out, ready to go.
Talk to your local bike shop that sells a lot of used bikes and your local bike club. They will probably understand exactly what you need even if you don’t. Just make sure the bike is light, simple, and easy.
if you’re on a bike, you’re not a pedestrian.